The Ingredient Library
Patchouli
Pogostemon cablin
Patchouli essential oil is steam-distilled from the dried, aged leaves of Pogostemon cablin, a bushy herb grown mainly by Indonesian smallholders. The oil darkens and deepens as it ages.
Get to know Patchouli
- Source
- Dried leaves
- Origin
- Indonesia
- Extraction
- Steam distillation
- Aroma
- Earthy, sweet, woody
What it is
Patchouli is an aromatic essential oil distilled from the plant.
Why it belongs in your routine
Earthy, sweet, woody oil distilled from dried Indonesian patchouli leaves.
How to use
Always dilute in a carrier oil before it touches skin. Never use undiluted. Patch test first.
Where Patchouli comes from
Patchouli essential oil comes from Pogostemon cablin, a bushy, soft-stemmed herb of the mint family that grows to around a metre tall, with broad, furry, faintly scented leaves. It is native to tropical Asia and needs heat, rain and partial shade. Indonesia produces most of the world's patchouli oil, from growing areas on Sulawesi, Sumatra (including Aceh) and Java.
The oil is amber to dark brown, thick, and smells earthy, sweet, woody and slightly camphoraceous. Its signature component is patchoulol, a sesquiterpene alcohol that often makes up around a third of the oil. Patchouli is a classic base note in perfumery, where it lasts for hours, and is used in soaps, candles, body oils and diffuser blends.
Sourcing & extraction
How Patchouli is sourced and extracted
Why it is rare
Fresh patchouli leaves have almost no scent. They must be dried and partly fermented before distillation, and the dried leaf yields only around 2 to 3 percent oil. The oil keeps improving for years in storage, so aged lots take time to build.
How it is gathered
Patchouli is usually grown by smallholder farmers in Indonesia on plots of a hectare or less, often alongside other crops. The first leaf harvest comes around six months after planting, and the plants are then cut again every few months. Farmers pick the leafy tops by hand, spread them to dry in the shade for several days, turning them often, and sell the dried leaves to local village distillers or collectors.
How it is made
Steam-distilled from dried leaves
- Leafy patchouli tops are cut by hand and spread in the shade to dry and partly ferment for several days.
- The dried leaves are packed tightly into a still, and steam is passed through them for many hours.
- The steam carries the heavy aromatic oil into a condenser, where it cools and separates from the water.
- The oil is drawn off and filtered, and is often left to mature, which softens its scent and deepens its colour.
How to use Patchouli
- Add a few drops to a diffuser for its aroma.
- For skin, dilute 1 to 2 drops in a teaspoon of carrier oil before applying.
- Keep away from eyes and never use undiluted on skin.
For external use only. Patch test on a small area before first use and stop if irritation occurs. If you are pregnant, nursing or have a medical condition, ask a healthcare professional before use.
From ingredient to routine
Products with Patchouli
Find this ingredient in our collection.
Questions about Patchouli
Where does Patchouli come from?
Patchouli is usually grown by smallholder farmers in Indonesia on plots of a hectare or less, often alongside other crops. The first leaf harvest comes around six months after planting, and the plants are then cut again every few months. Farmers pick the leafy tops by hand, spread them to dry in the shade for several days, turning them often, and sell the dried leaves to local village distillers or collectors.
How is Patchouli extracted?
Steam-distilled from dried leaves. Leafy patchouli tops are cut by hand and spread in the shade to dry and partly ferment for several days. The dried leaves are packed tightly into a still, and steam is passed through them for many hours. The steam carries the heavy aromatic oil into a condenser, where it cools and separates from the water. The oil is drawn off and filtered, and is often left to mature, which softens its scent and deepens its colour.
Why is Patchouli considered rare?
Fresh patchouli leaves have almost no scent. They must be dried and partly fermented before distillation, and the dried leaf yields only around 2 to 3 percent oil. The oil keeps improving for years in storage, so aged lots take time to build.
